Undercover – Jun Takahashi

Since the Japanese designer Jun Takahashi has decided to present its collections during Paris fashion week (there is this almost six years), his approach to clothing, both crazy, aesthetic and conceptual (a kind of mix between Margiela, Westwood and Raf Simons) continues to attract criticism. Visionary, unconventional, friend of Rei Kawakubo and young prodigy to the whole speech, far from ambient business calculations, Jun Takahashi is a rough diamond in the heart of the fashion world.

Jun Takahashi is not a simple stylist who designs clothes for “make fashion” is a complete artist who uses this medium to disseminate his ideas. It is also expressed through music, photography and graphic design. Young, he served the Japanese underground scene. It is DJ and leader of a group called “Tokyo Sex Pistols” and nicknamed Jonio referring to singer Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols.

It evolves in the Japanese punk scene, regularly attends the district Harajuku, throat like a sponge everything that surrounds and develops a unique urban style (rock-poetic) that may develop in the best fashion school Asia: the Bunka Academy. At the end of his studies, he founded his own label, “Undercover,” which quickly became a reference for young people in Tokyo and was rewarded by numerous awards, including the Mainichi prices that had already rewarded figures such as Issey Miyake and Junya Watanabe.

The brand, which was born in a small shop in Harajuku, then grows exponentially with more than 31 outlets quickly emerge on Japanese soil. Whether the dress to $ 2,500 or socks to $ 30, fashionistas literally flocking to the products of the brand.

Jun Takahashi distills in its collections punk references and odes to deconstruction. He says he wants to explore the dark side of things, to achieve an equal beauty and ugliness plan to annihilate the barrier between the two and mix them to create a new harmony. His work is positioned halfway between streetwear and pure fashion, the designers who parade during fashion week.

Her designs ooze rebellion, unestablishment, and want to “cute but scary, beautiful but ugly.” Jun Takahashi likes paradoxes meet, collide to the contrary, and it is this idea that he built his work. For him, fashion and social consciousness – even political – are absolutely opposed, quite the contrary. Thus one of the few designers to assert his ideas or to take a position through his shows, all with talent and intelligence.

Even if he knows that this is impossible, he says he would like to change the world through her clothes. He also thinks that a garment can generate something like reaction: a “Oh, this looks great,” and that through it can be passed constructive ideas.

Azimuthed his genius, his neo-utopianism and its candor and trash punk awaken the interest of the great lady of the Japanese avant-garde fashion, Rei Kawakubo. Between them, mutual respect installs quickly. Thus it will push him to go present his collections in France during the Paris week of ready-to-wear.

But for this, Jun Takahashi has to perform a repositioning at its target. Indeed, how to consume fashion in Japan has nothing to do with the Europeans, we had to target a more mature clientele, most adults have the means and the rebellious spirit.

So he landed in 2002 on the Paris catwalks, treating his shows as happenings, which quickly become the go-trendy arty of the fashion week. He works deconstructions, metaphors, grunge and delicate, fragile fabrics and sportswear, and gives this style a new energy.

His first presentations, although well received by critics, were not the least bit accessible. He knew for a few seasons make his point clearer, which makes it all the more desirable. Indeed, if refined his style, he has lost none of his imagination destroy, his fascination with gender confusion and transartistique his talent, even experimental.

He says draw inspiration from the street, an ideal Japanese street only seat in his mind … If his work is intense, uninhibited and praised, it is curious that the designer is not the least bit confident. He does not like to be under the spotlights and prefers to work in the shadows. It is never satisfied with what he produces and wishes continually go further, find something new, stronger, both portable and transcendent.

All this allows him to continue to surprise and ever: his collection autumn-winter 2007/2008 and provided a new and enlightened vision of the future of the locker room, where the climate would play a coin. As for the album was 2008, he forsook few moments the “dark side” so dear to the designer to focus on the modernization of style 30 years short of amazing, sharp and captivating …

 

Gallery

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UNDERCOVER JUN TAKAHASHI | Page 3

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THVM

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